Skip to main content

Wiper motor removal, stripping down and reassembly

For the past couple of weeks, I had trouble with the window wipers on the MGB.
Once switched on, they were moving slowly, and after some time they were stopping halfway, stuck on the windscreen... Not very safe when it's raining! And no other possibility to restart them than park, get out of the car and help by hand the wipers to go back to their storage position.

So, I have decided to have closer look.
The motor and mechanism were encountering mechanical resistance somewhere.
The first idea was to extract the motor and the gears attached on top, and open them to check inside.

How to remove the motor and gears:

  • The motor is under the dashboard on the right side of the car.
  • It is attached to the car with a metallic strap and 2 bolts. Undo the bolts and disengage the motor from the strap.
  • Once this is done, you should be able to have access to the electrical connector located at the back of the motor.
  • The mechanism (cable) that goes to the wiper arms is connected to the extremity of the motor/gearbox via a olive nut, that need to be removed. Be careful, it is very greasy. 
  • If you cannot disconnect the cable, you will need to unscrew the cover hold by 4 little hex bolts. Be careful, it is very very greasy, and also be careful as all the parts remain in place.
And finally, you should be able to remove the motor and bring it to a bench.

What is inside:

Once the cover is removed, you should see something like that:
It was easy to see the mechanism was full of old sticky/ solid grease... Consequently, the solution was simple: strip down, clean everything and reassemble.

NOTE: be careful to take picture of your mechanism to re position the components at the same place during the reassembly phase.  Failed this and your wipers will not stop at the correct place when you turn them off.

Once all the parts have been cleaned (I have also taken apart the motor):

Pay attention to the circle on the picture below:

Inside there is a kind of spherical plain bearing, and mine was seized, contributing to the difficulty of the mechanism to work properly. You can give back its mobility to the spherical plain bearing by using penetrating lubricant, and moving it around with a lever (screwdriver for example).

The reassembly is quite simple: just put everything together as shown on the pictures you will have taken earlier.
Put a bit of grease on the bump at the back of the main gear, and also put some grease in the groove (left side of the picture above) and on the endless screw from the motor that connects to the main gear.


Reinstall the wiper motor on the car:

You will need ti remove once again the cover.
Be careful that all parts inside remain in place.
Connect the extremity of the cable to the motor mechanism, and close the cover with the 4 small hex screws and tighten back the olive nut:
Plug the connector at the back of the engine.
Reinstall the motor on the strap (be careful that the rubbers are positioned correctly).
And once everything is tighten, then... You just have to make a test.

... And the wipers are back to life!! :D



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Rebuild of a Solex carburettor 26AIC

I am always keen to rework old mechanical parts, not only to satisfy my thirst for knowledge but also for the pleasure to bring back to life an old thing long forgotten. In this article, we will review a Solex carburettor 26AIC. Here is the thing: I have been happy to discover that mobile parts were not seized :D A bit of history: This carburettor was initially fitted on Renault Juvaquatre (1938-39): Photo from Lars-Göran Lindgren (Sweden)/ Wikipedia Another variant exists for Peugeot 202 , with a slight difference however: on the top, the 26AIC for the Peugeot has two holes to attach a protector on top: The Solex 26AIC has also been used on this models: Standard Flying Eight Side Valve 1938-48 Reliant 3 Wheeler Regal 1952-58 Reliant Export 1952-62 And also on industrial engines: Coventry Climax FSM2 & FSM3 Engines 1939-49 That's all for the history bit for now, the next step is to strip it down! 😄 Stripping down t...

Remplacement du tableau électrique... Episode 1 !

Hello, hello! Encore un long moment sans billet. Les travaux me prennent pas mal de temps, et lorsque je peux écrire un petit quelque chose, la flemme se pointe et m'agresse sauvagement! Avec cette nouvelle année (meilleurs vœux!!), je vais essayer de tenir mon blog un peu plus à jour. Et non ! Ce n'est pas une "bonne résolution"... Je n'en prends jamais, comme ça, pas de déception, pas d'échec. ^-^ Pour inaugurer 2011, je profite de ne pas être chez moi pour écrire un petit billet sur les premiers travaux de l'année. Sujet: le remplacement de mon tableau électrique, "épisode I: la mise en sécurité." La maison a été construite avant 1840 (la dernière grosse modification structurelle daterait de 1841). Ne s'agissant pas d'une réhabilitation totale, j'essaie juste d'être au plus proche de la norme NF C 15-100, mais sans que ce soit une obligation absolue. Je n'ai pas posé de GTL, par exemple. J'ai également une can...

Headlights/ Parking lights warning buzzer

On modern car, usually a buzzer warns you when you leave your lights on while leaving your car. Unfortunately on our oldies, such devices were not always available. That could result in a discharged battery... After having left a couple of time the lights on (but been lucky enough to not have a completely flat battery when returning some hours later), I have decided to install a warning buzzer. Theory: I am using the wiring diagrams from Advance Auto-Wire (document here ). My MGB GT is a 75 UK model. The correct wiring diagram is the one on sheet 31 (page 32 of the pdf file). We want to add a buzzer that detects the parking lights are on when the door is opened. That means we need to connect a buzzer between the parking light feeding wire and the door switch. The parking lights feeding wire is a red & green (RG) starting at the "HEADLIGHT SWITCH", the door switch wires are the purple & white (PW) "COURTESY LAMP & DOOR SWITCHES". ...